Lawn Maintenance
Lawncare Calendar
Autumn - Winter
- Aerate soil particularly if you have heavy clay soil.
- Check your ph, does it need a top up or lime or dolomite.
- Fertilize with a high Potassium granule fertilizer to toughen the grass before winter
- Remove fallen leaves to ensure grass has adequate sun and doesn't cause bare patches
- Water once a week or less depending on water restrictions.
- Mow when needed or once every 3-4 weeks ensuring to cut the grass at a higher setting
Early Spring
- Remove the thatch built up over winter – hire a dethatcher if required
- Aerate soil again, taking particular note to places that are high traffic areas
- Top dress the soil if needed.
- Fertilise with an organic fertilizer such as dynamic lifter to encourage root growth before the maximum season or leaf growth begins.
- Keep and eye on any emerging weeds and remove or poison.
Spring to Summer
- Gradually decrease the height of your cut and begin to mow more frequently as it gets hotter
- Water once to twice a week in the evenings or mornings if possible
- Keep weeds under control
Water wise tips for lawns
- Mix Organic matter through the top 15cm of a sandy soil before a lawn is established to improve water holding capacity. If you have clay soil use gypsum to break the soil up and allow roots and water to enter.
- Your lawn should be fertilised regularly to ensure it stays healthy. Once a year in March or April is the recommended time. If possible fertilize after rain has fallen to ensure the soil is able to accept the fertilizer.
- Do not set your mower too low. Do not cut it any lower than 2.5 cm, and cut the lawn longer in winter months so that keeping grass longer shades the soil surface and reduces evaporation loss.
- Do not over-water lawns as this can lead to the development of fungal problems. Plus if it is running off and not going in, you are wasting water.
- "Train" your lawn to use less water. In spring, when your lawn is beginning its new growth, let the topsoil dry out so that the grass roots will be forced to grow deeper and make use of subsoil moisture. Then soak your lawn every 10-14 days. By training your lawn this way it will be able to survive longer in the heat without requiring water.
Lawn Maintenance - Weeds and Patches
Weeds
The best defence against weeds, pest and diseases is a well maintained lawn.
Weeds take advantage of increased opportunities to grow – disturbed ground or increased light. Many produce a high amount of seeds and are self pollinated; some have bulbs or runners that can survive even though the top is removed. Remove any weeds before they seed, you can either dig them out using your hands and a knife – time consuming, but effective. But if you have more of a problem, spray the lawn with a selective chemical, one that kills the weeds and leaves the lawn intact. Use a Bushranger or Zenoah Sprayer to spray the chemicals. Ask you nursery what to use for your weed problem.
TIP
If you do not like chemicals put one cup of salt in 2 litres of white vinegar and make a weed killer. Then brush it onto the weeds in a day or two they will die. But remember this is a non-selective herbicide if you put it on your grass the grass will die too.
Top-dressing
Top dressing is used to level the lawn and to fill in bald patches. Use a sandy loam or washed river sand. Cover affected areas by no more than 1 cm and rake the mix to spread it evenly and then water in well
Bare Patches
Bare Patches in your lawn can be treated with new lawn or if the area is too shady try planting a type of grass that is best for shady conditions or make it into a garden bed, path, or patio. If the bare patch is because of heavy traffic or pet “stains” aerate this part of soil, plant runners or seed, provide plenty or water and fence them off if possible and do not mow these areas for 6 weeks.
